From 1986 to the summer of 1999 Borocco
Restaurant (below Canal on West Broadway) was a favorite art world
hang out in the heyday of the Mary Boone-Schnabel-Fischl-Salle-Basquiat,
rein of power. A time forever, memorably etched upon the minds
of those that caught a taste of the opulence and chest-pounding
heroics of it all. Signifying the premature optimism of the Miami
scene in general in the mid- to late 1990's, in-between his first
two NY projects, owner Danny Emerman opened a Borocco Beach for
three years in Florida before he folded it. When the art world
picked up and retrenched in Chelsea, so did the venerable eating
establishment under the new guise, Bottino (opened for business
in June of 1998). The food at Bottino on 10th Avenue, between
24th and 25th streets, is as consistent as the décor is
subdued 1950's style simplicity. The restaurant is a kind of up-scale
art world cafeteria, where you can be sure to find anyone and
everyone of significance from the self-important, to the important-important.
On the other hand, a cutting edge architectural
leap is manifest in the just opened :bot Restaurant on
Mott Street (south of Prince Street, near Little Italy) and Glass
bar (due to open in early March, located across the street from
Bottino on 10th Avenue and co-owned by Fernando Henao). Architect
Thomas Leeser, a German based in New York, who also designed the
Grunert/Gasser Gallery in Chelsea, designed both places. His style,
as apparent from the latest two projects of restaurateur and bar
entrepreneur Emerman, is tubular-techno, if that can used to characterize
an environment. Four by eight-foot sheet-rock, the building block
of wall construction in the States, was soaked in vats of water
to render it pliable enough to be molded into the curvilinear
walls that make up the new spaces. Tinted glass was handily used
to create a fresh, contemporary ambience, with a hint of 60's
nostalgia; when the spaces are taken as a whole, they are akin
to high tech Japanese subway cars. Glass being a bar is
more palatable as an architectural exercise in innovation than
the results of :bot, which, with its lime green walls and
pink and orange accents, is almost disturbing at first. Though
the meal was delicious and without complaints, the space is actually
located outside with a tent-like cover and glowing heaters dropped
from the ceiling above each table, which is as disconcerting as
the colors. All in all, it's a good place to show friends with
an architectural bent and a strong stomach, that are into disquieting
day-glo-otherwise, to Bottino and pop over to Glass for an after
dinner drink.
Danny Emerman, owner of Bottino, Bot and
Glass, could be the first restaurateur that built a business around
the art world that didn't sell paintings or build crates. Perhaps
there was a bit of luck or a confluence of events that catapulted
his Borocco to art world hyper status. Nevertheless, he consciously
went after the art crowd with his move to Chelsea and deserves
the position of court holder for the art elite.
Bottino: 246 10th Avenue (between 24th
and 25th Streets). Hours: Tues. to Sat. lunch 12:00 - 3:30pm,
Dinner: Tues. - Sat. 6:00 to 11:30; Monday 6:00 - 11:00, and Sunday
6:00 - 11:00. Telephone 212 206-6766; fax 212 206-6767, web: www.Bottinonyc.com
Bot: 231 Mott Street, Monday - Saturday
6:00 - 11:30. Phone and fax 646 613-1312. Web www.botmott.com
Glass: 287 10th Avenue, 5:00pm - 3:00am, only cold food-light
fare and appetizers such as cerviche and sashimi. No phone numbers
since not open till March Specialties at the above: appetizer
tuna tartre; penne with speck; and rack of lamb Thomas Leeser
is from Frankfurt, and his information re: his building projects
could be accessed at www.leeser.com.
Please note he also designed Bottino.
*by Kenny Schachter, appearing in new German Magazine:
Art Investor
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